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ICH Materials 33
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Resilient Communities of Kathmandu ValleyResidents of Kathmandu Valley, for the first time, saw temples being closed and even barred from entering the sites due to Covid-19. Most of the festivals were cancelled, which didn’t even happen even after the devastating earthquake of 2015. Only the most important rituals were performed behind closed doors. Many festivals and rituals were limited to just the formality rituals and forgiveness rituals. Instead of huge crowds, there were empty squares and closed temple doors.\n\nFor the cities, towns, and villages within the Valley known for festivals, processions, and rituals throughout the year, Covid-19 proved to be cruel. The prolonged uncertainty has prompted communities and individuals to take alternatives for continuity of ICH with new normality.\n\nThe biggest festival of Patan city, a chariot Karunayama procession, saw a violent clash between locals and police on 3 September 2020. The sight of chariot with God inside was stranded on the roadside for several months and made locals take the decision to start pulling it. After this event, the consultation between local government, chief district officer and community members was held. A few days later, the symbolic procession and forgiveness rituals were performed. The strict measures for security and necessary precautions against Covid-19 were taken. Only limited numbers of people could pull the chariot and play musical instruments with masks and face shields.\n\nMany rituals, which were supposed to take place without the masses attending, continued in many places of Kathmandu Valley. One of the rituals was restoration of important scriptures of Mahayana Buddhism—Pragyaparmita in Buddhist Monastery of Kwa Baha/ Hiranyavarna Mahavihara in Patan. Pragyaparmita translates as “Perfection of Wisdom.” The one in this monastery is written in gold and contains eighty thousand stanzas that were written in 1224 CE. This restoration used to take place for a month every three years, which had one leap year according to the lunar calendar. This year with leap month, the Buddhists priests were seen working on it wearing masks behind the closed door of the monastery.\n\nSimilarly, the annual festival of Pachali Bhairav in Kathmandu was held from 17 to 21 October. The community members took extra steps to adjust to new normal with full precautions against Covid-19. The people who were carrying God Pachali Bhairav in the form of big pot were seen wearing Personal Protective Element. This scene was spectacular.\n\nLikewise, the town of Khokana in Kathmandu Valley also continued with their most important annual event Shikali Jatra from 19 to 23 October. The deities were with their traditional masks and attire, but the communities were with the mask to protect against the virus. This festival used to have huge crowds, but this year, only a limited number of people attended.\n\nAnother city in Bhaktapur also continued their important annual mask dance named Nava Durga that started on 24 October. To avoid the masses, all the rituals and dances were performed only in the square of the ancient Bhaktapur palace where limited people were allowed. Normally, this dance is performed in different places within city of Bhaktapur and nearby villages and towns, which would continue until June. But with pandemic, the continuation in other places is still uncertain.\n\nPeople tend to organize festivals, continue rituals despite the warning from the health professionals and government. Many legends and tales tell the stories of rituals and festivals initiated in ancient time to ward off evil spirits, droughts, and pandemic. Many people still hold on to these beliefs in Kathmandu Valley.\n\nPhoto 1 : Chariot of Machindranath guarded by police to avoid crowds. ©Monalisa Maharjan\nPhoto 2 : Devotees burning butter lamps while wearing masks. ©Monalisa MaharjanYear2020NationNepal
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Chariot Festival of Janabaha Dhyo in KathmanduChariot festivals are interesting events in Kathmandu Valley where various communities come together to worship and celebrate; Janabaha Dhyo Jatra (as known locally) or Seto Machindranth Jatrar of Kathmandu is one such festival. The festival starts on Chaitra Sukla Asthami according to the lunar calendar. This year, a three-day festival will be celebrated from 26 to 28 March 2018.\n\nSurrounded by various stupas and statues of gods and goddesses in Janabaha Temple is a statue of Janabaha Dhyo, one of the eighteen chief Vihara of Kathmandu. The deity is worshiped as a form of Aryavalokitesvara and worshiped both by Hindus and Buddhists. The divine white face and feet are only the visible part of the statue while the rest is covered in cloth and jewelry. The Buddhist priest community looks over the deity, temple, and rituals all year round.\n\nDuring the festival, Buddhist priests put the statue in a palanquin and carry the deity from the temple to a place near Sanskrit College in Jamal. Once there, the deity is placed on the wooden chariot that the farmer community in Jamal would have constructed days before the procession. The wooden chariot is believed to be the where a potter found the deity while digging for clay. Assembled without using any nails but ropes made up of beda plant, the chariot is about ten meters high with four huge wheels with a long wooden pole in the front. The wooden chariot is built using almost three hundred pieces of wood, and the construction technique gives it flexibility while the devotees pull the chariot with the help of the rope. The chariot is in a sikhara style; gajura is placed on top. The chariot is decorated with juniper leaves.\n\nThe chariot procession takes place with all its fanfare. Gurjuya Paltan, the traditional army band, also joins the procession, including traditional musical groups from various quarters of the city and belonging to different castes. The procession follows a narrow path from the Tindhara Pathasala and enters the dense city through the Bhotahity (entry point of the ancient city). The chariot journey ends a ta place called Lagan. From there, the deity is carried back to the temple in a palanquin.\n\nVarious activities are held during the chariot procession; devotees come to pull the chariot while crowds stand in the street to watch. With vibrant colors, the chariot seemingly provides euphoria everywhere it passes. Devotees also come to worship the deity and light butter lamps in the morning and at night when the chariot is at rest. After the procession, the chariot is dismantled and the wood is saved for the next year.\n\nPhoto : Statue of Seto Machchhindra CC BY-SA 3.0 Krish DulalYear2018NationNepal
Open Archive 4
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Ihi-my first wedding to Bel
The picture above is my first marriage (according to Newar tradition) with the Bel fruit, along with my friends which is also known as a wooden apple. I was about 5 years old and had no idea about the wedding at all. Newars possess different cycles of rituals from birth to death. Wedding of a girl in Newari community possess a deep meaning and has great importance. Their wedding practices are unique too. A daughter born in a Newari community is married thrice. But not all marriages are with men (groom). The first marriage is performed before puberty with Bel fruit (Aegle marmelos), the second marriage is with the sun, and finally, the third marriage is with a man. Ihi, one of the most important rites of the Newar community, is an entrance ritual to the life cycle ritual of the Newar girl, which gives membership to the girl within the community. Young girls from age of 5-9, before their puberty, are married with bel fruit, the symbol of the Lord Bishnu, one of the gods in Hinduism. Hence, this function is related to marriage and divorce. After this marriage, Newar girl is, therefore, never believed to be a widow, even her real husband dies, because she has already married with eternal god, Lord Bishnu the god of sustainer. No less than other weddings, I was made ready for the wedding ceremony dressed up with my hair and makeup done. In Newar culture, during special ceremonies, people must clean from head to toe. Naunis (a traditional barber and pedicurist in the Newar community) are invited for nail trimming. Naunis cut nails and put “Ala” (a red pigment), around hands and feet (like in the second picture), which is a traditional pedicure for women in Newari culture. After all preparation, we were taken to the temple of the Lord Bishnu for the wedding ceremony with the Bel. And after the ceremony, relatives came to me bringing gifts and cash. There was a feast afterward. These practices are of more than religious and cultural significance. Through these rituals and practices, young girls are taught about the change they have according to their age. They are even taught about the norm and values of the community as a member of it. Fortunately, Ihi is being practiced to the date, but the importance and meaning of Ihi are declining day by day. Rituals like this should be safeguarded and transmitted to the coming generation.
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Wadangmet: The Dancing festival of Chhilings
Wadangmet, also known as Papani, is one of the greatest festivals of the Chhiling Rai people from the eastern hills of Nepal. Just after the Nepali Tihar festival (Sep/Oct) is celebrated, every Rai household in the community takes out the Dhol and Jhymta, musical instruments which are kept hidden in the house for a whole year. Pulling out these instruments signals the beginning of the festival which lasts for 1-2 weeks. My 80-year-old grandmother loved telling this and many other stories about the Rai culture. It is believed that divine Rai deities, Ambirahang and Rexihang, children of Budahang come to the village and shower their blessings on the people. Budahang is the king of the gods. According to the Chhiling legend, Budahang’s children ran away and secretly got married, a serious violation of Rai social and traditional norms. For breaking the taboo, they were banished from the village. The villagers, however, decided that couple could visit the village for one week every year. Wadangmet is celebrated to welcome the return of the banished couple with singing and dancing. During their stay, the community does not perform any other rituals or worship other souls and spirits. The celebrations begin on the full moon in November. As an offering, the locals take one half kilogram of rice (mana dhurne) to the local priest’s house. This offering, on the first day of the festival, is made to the unholy couple to encourage their blessings of eternal life for family members. On the second day the people gather at the priest’s house and, during puja, offer a pig and two chickens to the siblings. The same day, they clean and worship in the village courtyards. On the third day, the villagers gather at the Mukhiya’s (the head of the village) house with Dhol and Jhyampta to perform traditional dancing. They cut another pig and share the feast. On the fourth day, every household offers a pig to Ashik Hang (the king of blessing) for a long and healthy life. At this time the household’s future for the coming year is forecasted by performing the “Tharkibahal or Mangla” ritual; a chicken is offered to gods. If a chicken bleeds it is believed that family members will have a peaceful and healthy life for the coming year. If the chicken doesn’t bleed the family will have one year of uncertainty. The celebration continues for a fifth day in another village. On the sixth day the raucous celebration continues at the Mukhiya’s house in another village. Traditionally, the day also used to be an occasion for joking and courting among boys and girls. They would meet, fall in love and many would practice bhagibibaha; they would elope and be considered married. Wadangmet is the happiest time of the year. It’s a festival to celebrate life, community, friendship, love, music and dance. The final day of the festival is MangPankha; seeing off the deities. This is a week-long celebration at the Priest’s house that includes more rice and chicken puja, singing, dancing and playing the hidden musical instruments. People dance for whole night (and drink) and when the sun rises, they once again bid farewell to forbidden couple. Achita, rice used for the pujas, is considered to cure diseases. They save it for medicinal use throughout the coming year. No one knows how or when this festival began. My grandmother was filled with myths and fascinating stories about ancestors and how they lived. Regrettably, many of these stories are being forgotten but, Wadangmet is alive and well. Long live the Chhilings Rai people!
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Welcome~ Is this your first time with Yamari?
The picture above is of my family and me making Yamari (traditional typical Newari Bread) in Nepal 2019. It was midwinter, freezing cold morning. The majestic view of snowclad mountains seems refreshed after wakening up. Many trees were denuded of leaves and the lawn was covered in frost. I was wearing gloves and a woolen cap to escape from the cold, sitting in my yard drinking chiya (a traditional nepali tea) and enjoying the splendid morning view with my father. In the meanwhile, I heard my mother calling us to the kitchen. We went to the kitchen and saw my mother ready for making “Yamari”. She wanted us to give her our hands in making the “Yamari”. "Ya" means "to like'' and "mari" means "bread" in Newari language, which literally means “tasty bread”. Yamari is a steamed sweet bread made of rice flour (from the new harvest) dough, shaped like fig with ends like a fishtail and filled with chaku (a sweet made up of sugarcane, ghee, and nut, etc.) and sesame seeds. I was so excited because Yamari was one of my favorite foods which are eaten once a year, in the winter season only. I always wondered why it is made in winter only but not in other seasons. My mother explains, “Eating Yamari avoids the effects of cold winter. Our body gets weak in winter, so, to energize our body we eat chaku which is only made in winter”. However, nowadays it is becoming a popular snack and can be seen in city markets. My mother taught me how to make nice shaped Yamari. The closing part of it must be like the shape of the tail longer if possible because it is believed that the longer the tail is the longer the day will be, and night get shorter which means soon the winter will end. I followed my mother but failed several times. Some shaped round, some shaped semi triangle. After failing several times, I was able to make a beautiful Yamari (third picture). According to the Newari tradition, children including elders go to nearby houses door to door singing a special song and asking for Yamari on a full moon day known as the yamari full moon day. This event used to be real fun and memorable especially for children. However, today this tradition is gradually disappearing. Children and youngsters have no craze for Yamari like before. They are more interested in mobiles or computer games than in preserving their culture and tradition.
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Arrival of the Autumn Reminds me “Bada Dashain” in Nepal
I am Rashila Maharjan. I am studying Anthropology in South Korea. Nowadays, Facebook walls are full of Dashain festival photos. Looking at the Dashain photos sent by my family and friends, I want to briefly share memories of Dashain when I was young. After a late scorching heat of summer, autumn is here. Days are shorter and nights are longer now. The cold breeze in the morning and evening gives me a sign telling, “Dashain ayo” which means “Dashain is here”. Dashain is a major and the longest festival in Nepal. A fifteen-day long festival is a most awaited festival in the year. This year it was celebrated from 7th October to 20th October. All the government agencies, educational institutions private offices get days off during this festival period. Dashain commemorates a great victory of gods over the wicked demons and it symbolizes the victory of good over evil. The story of good over evil is told throughout the festival. By this faith, people forgive each other, and convey greetings and best wishes to each other and pray for a year of a good harvest. On the auspicious occasion of Dashain, all houses are beautifully decorated, painted into different colors to roll out the red carpet for their guests. People do the shopping and buy new clothes. In the commemoration of the Dashain, a goat is slaughtered in every house for the preparation of a feast during the festival. With this preparation, family members and relatives, who had not seen or met for quite a while congregate and visit elders to seek Tika and Jamara, as well as a blessing. (According to the Hindu mythology, Tika (a red vermillion mark on forehead) is believed to give peace and calmness whereas Jamara (young saplings of rice seed tucked on ears) is said to be a sign of the blessing of goddess Durga.) On the other hand, elders of the family give tika as well as a blessing with cash gifts to the younger ones after receiving bows from them. One other activity throughout Dashain is flying kites, ridding on a traditional swing made by the bamboo tree, playing cards, etc. All members of the family gather and play cards while joking with each other, kids fly kites and ride on the swing. In the evening, people gather at the town square and share their stories. As in last year, COVID-19 has caused unleashed chaos and fear among the people. Despite the global pandemic the excitement and the spirit of the festival are not less than before. Nepal witnessed the Dashain celebration with a well-maintained social distance while on the contrary, people who are living abroad and can’t visit their home are using an online platform to celebrate the festival. Overall, Dashain is a grand and favorite festival for all age groups of people which symbolizes unity, harmony, and brotherhood. The autumn wind is blowing gently and the colors of leaves are changing in Korea. This cool weather and smell of autumn bring a feeling of Nostalgia that stems from memories of back to my homeland.
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